Laurence Hochard: "As a
matter of fact, candied fruit are "fruits confits", which are quite different
from "pâtes de fruit". Candied fruit are whole or sliced fruit or even orange or
lemon peel dipped into boiling sugar syrup until the fruit is imbibed to the
core, whereas "pâtes de fruit" are made of very thick jelly, so solid that the
jelly can be cut into bars and rolled in granulated sugar.
It doesn't solve
the mystery of Nabokov's "candied fruit jellies" though..."
JM: The "pates de fruit"
(following SB's indications and now L.Hochard's) demand fruits, sugar and
pectin: a sophisticated treat!
I think that they resemble
certain sweets which, when bitten, feel
like fruit-flavored "Turkish Delight." (did "Pale Fire's" gardens
of delight and Flemish hells refer to them?*), although their
recipes contain different ingredients, not pectin.
Perhaps Nabokov was familiar (he seems to have
had a sweet-tooth?) with St.Petersburg's "marmelady" and that these might
have corresponded to his undictionarized "candied fruit
jellies"? (there are also "fruit jellies" cut out in the shape of
flowers and fruit, which may be sold as candies, kept in jars like
glorious jujubes)
If "jelly" is the UK word for "jam," VN's
"jellies" might have derived from his Cambridge, England experience. However,
Charles Schulze's character Linus seems to have been inordinately fond of an
American jelly found together with peanuts (the "peanutbutter-and-jelly"
sandwich). Did Vera enjoy cooking?
Suddenly I found myself curious about Vladimir Nabokov's favorite dishes and
eating routines...
...................................................................................................
* "scorn hereafter none can
verify:/ The
Turk’s delight, the future lyres, the talks/With Socrates and Proust in cypress
walks,/The seraph with
his six flamingo wings,/And Flemish hells with porcupines and things?"